You’ll experience moments when the city’s numerous identities are expressed and aligned perfectly, for instance, enjoying a street snack of tacos al pastor while taking in a hidden Diego Rivera mural. But you’ll also be looking for the fractures, zooming in on specific influences: a heady Aztec brew, or a colonial-era mole recipe, or the unique, pre-Hispanic floating farms still in use today.
You’ll also be sure to head out of the center city with a visit to the floating boats and green oasis of Xochimilco. From street food to contemporary Mexican dining trends, traditional restaurants to meals in local homes, your focus throughout will be food and the people who make it. On the ever-present periphery of your taste buds will be the history, art, architecture, landscape, agriculture, and street life that brings everything together.
Day 1: Welcome to Mexico City
Arrive in Mexico City and check into your group’s hotel. Take some time to settle in and wander the neighborhood before you meet this evening for your welcome dinner at Limosneros. Chefs Marcos Fulcheri and Carlo Méndez will work with pre-Hispanic ingredients, colonial techniques, and modern creative twists to create an unforgettable meal. In a private room, you’ll share your first of many meals and get a glimpse into what the week will hold.
Day 2: The many layers of Mexico City
After breakfast at your hotel, you’ll be spending the day in downtown Centro Histórico, exploring your trip’s themes through food, history, and culture. Today will be a crash course in the history of Mexico City, with visits to the “obscure side” of major monuments and historic remnants hidden from view, including Aztec temples, a mural by Diego Rivera, and former sacrificial sites.
For lunch, you’ll be dropping by a family-run Oaxacan grocery/restaurant in the heart of one of the city’s oldest commercial districts, once home to large communities of newly arrived Jewish and Lebanese merchants.
In the evening, set out on a taco tour, hitting a number of nighttime taco stands, including an al pastor spot housed in an auto repair shop. Along with classic tacos, you’ll also have the chance to taste ones made with brains, bull’s eyes, and intestines. Afterward, turn in for some well-earned rest, or explore some of the local nightlife on your own.
Day 3: Mole and Milpa Alta
Today, you’ll head to Milpa Alta, a center of mole production on the outskirts of Mexico City. You’ll be delving deep into all things mole, learning about ingredients, production techniques, regional varieties, and how this food represents the colonial heritage of Mexico.
On your way to Milpa Alta, stop by the home of a local villager to learn about the artisanal production of pulque, a pre-Hispanic drink made from the sap of the agave-like maguey plant. During the afternoon, visit private homes and markets to gain a better sense of daily life and the food that shapes and defines it, and finish your visit with a late lunch starring (what else?) mole. Back in the city this evening, take some time to rest and relax from the long day, and have dinner at your leisure (if you’re still hungry, that is).
Day 4: Xochimilco and Lucha Libre
You’ll set out on an action-packed exploration of Xochimilco, a highlight of the region and treasure of Aztec-era living culture. Unlike many pre-Hispanic-era monuments that are entombed in museums, Xochimilco is a living place with working farms and much to see, eat, and drink, all linked to pre-Hispanic Mexico.
For lunch, you’ll have a meal onboard a traditional flat-bottomed boat as you float along Aztec-era canals that have been in use for more than 2,000 years. Your meal will be prepared by locals using products from the chinampas, the area's famous “floating farms,” one of which you’ll have the chance to visit.
Back on land, check out a local market and get a taste of pre-Hispanic Mexico (think: tlacoyos) before heading to the enchanting Dolores Olmedo Museum. In the evening, attend a Lucha Libre wrestling match followed by a visit to Mexico City’s vibrant “mariachi square” for live music, dancing, and one more festive meal together!
Day 5: Day of the Dead cemetery visit and market
Today is Day of the Dead and you’ll start with a cemetery visit to witness how this fascinating day begins. From there, you’ll head to a bustling local market awash in produce, flowers, food, and crafts to learn about all of the special details that go into preparing for this big day. Getting a taste of what’s in season, sample food specialties from around the market.
Next, you’ll make a private visit to the nearby home and workshop of the famous Linares family. This family is considered to be the most important producer of Mexican folk art, specifically related to the Day of the Dead.
For dinner, enjoy a paired mezcal tasting led by a bottler who travels the Mexican countryside in search of small batch producers of the spirit. The mezcal will be paired with classic Mexican dishes with a creative spin. Raise Your glasses in a toast to the chef and to the opportunity to spend this important holiday together.
Day 6: Farewell and Departure
Today, depart for home or onto your next destination or, if you’d like, spend a few more days exploring Mexico City. The guide will be happy to provide additional recommendations. Until your next adventure!
Itineraries and daily schedules are subject to change. Culinary Backstreets expects to do everything listed in the itinerary, though the order may be rearranged based on weather or other local conditions.
Activity level
Travelers should be reasonably fit and feel comfortable walking three to five miles each day and remain on their feet for long periods of time. Keep in mind that Mexico City is a bustling and crowded place!