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3 million inhabitants, 10 million sheep... welcome to Wales! If there was a land that has remained relatively unknown to the general public, yet so close and exotic at the same time, it would undoubtedly be this small piece of wild terrain, fiercely attached to its Celtic roots, which is Wales. Being the smallest of the 4 nations constituting the United Kingdom, this off-the-beaten-path destination is only 3 hours away by train from London.
You willl stay in 2-3* hotels or equivalent comfort bed & breakfasts. Cyclodyssées prioritizes charming accommodations whenever possible, giving you a sense of the country's spirit. All rooms have an ensuite bathroom and all accommodations have some space to store your bicycles.
By train or car, make your way to the tranquil town of Chirk, just across the Welsh border. You are now at the starting point of your Welsh odyssey! If you arrive early enough, take the opportunity to visit its lovely castle, which is beautifully furnished! To reach Chirk, it takes about 3 hours by train from London (or 5 hours by car from Dover).
This first stage will treat your eyes from the first miles, as you follow the picturesque Llangollen Canal, leading to the dizzying Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Arriving in the charming town of Llangollen, a little detour to Plas Newydd will amaze you with its extraordinary interior architecture, envisioned by two "romantic friends" who lived there in the 13th century.
You then leave the canal and venture into the green sheep-filled countryside of the Welsh hinterland. Along the way, you can admire the ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey. A few thousand sheep later, you arrive in Bala, a typical little town that will welcome you for the night.
After cycling along the Llyn Tegid Lake, you gradually ascend to the high plateaus, with endless landscapes that seem straight out of The Lord of the Rings. A single-track road winds delightfully through this desolate environment for about 20 km (about 12 miles). On the other side of the plateau, you gradually descend into the Mawddach Valley, where the vegetation becomes increasingly lush. Protected from the wind, luxuriant vegetation can flourish here! By the end of the day, you reach the charming village of Dolgellau, where the gray granite houses will make you feel the true soul of the country.
The day begins gently along the beautiful Mawddach Trail, a former railway line converted into a greenway. It follows the estuary of the Mawddach River for about six miles before flowing into the sea. Just before the estuary, the route veers towards the mountain and takes you, some 200 m (about 650 ft) higher, to the Cregennan Lakes, two small alpine lakes nestled in an idyllic setting. From there, the route continues through meadows with sheep perched on the hillside above the sea, offering sublime panoramas.
You then descend to the coast, which you will now follow - closely or from a distance - until you reach Llanbedr, your destination for the day. Along the way, you pass through the village of Fairbourne, considered to be the first village in the United Kingdom that will be submerged by rising waters, and the seaside resort of Barmouth, which boasts a superb white sandy beach. On a clear day, sunbathers or sea swimmers can relax here for the rest of the afternoon - a train will help you make up for lost time later!
If the route doesn't run directly along the sea, it's to gain a bit of altitude and better admire it! The sporty option will challenge you with the steepest slope in the world, approaching 40%! This offers you splendid panoramas throughout the day. Midway, a detour allows you to discover the village of Portmeirion, a former fishing village that an eccentric architect transformed into a Mediterranean-style village reminiscent of Portofino, with pastel-colored houses designed to create a haven of beauty.
The last part of the day is on a former railway line transformed into a greenway, allowing you to cover the last 15 km (9 miles) with ease (which is convenient because this stage is a bit longer!). At the end of the course, you reach Caernarfon, a beautiful medieval town living in the shadow of its monumental UNESCO-listed fortress.
Two options are offered today:
1. In good weather, a detour through Llanberis before reaching Anglesey allows you to ascend the legendary Mount Snowdon. With its 1085 m (3,560 ft), it is the highest point in Wales. The ascent is generally done with a cogwheel train, but the more athletic can also hike up (in which case, wake up early as the ascent takes 3 hours!). Llanberis is also home to the National Slate Museum, dedicated to the rock that enriched North Wales.
2. Alternatively, the option through Beaumaris allows you to opt for a sea excursion to get a closer look at Puffin Island, a rock where many seabirds nest, including the famous puffin! Beaumaris is also a pretty seaside village with colorful houses, home to a powerful fortress submerged in the middle of a beautiful marsh.
Anglesey Island, which you reach after crossing the impressive Menai Suspension Bridge, also allows you to stroll to an island as small as it is mystical: Church Island. A 15th-century church, an old cemetery, and Celtic crosses await your arrival. In foggy weather, it appears to be haunted.
Your journey on the island ends at Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, which, with its 58 letters, is Europe's longest place name. A photo in front of the train station sign is a must before hailing the train (yes, otherwise, it won't stop!) that will take you to the town of Bangor. This short rail connection allows you to avoid a less interesting section (although the most motivated can cycle it).
A shorter stage awaits you today to Llandudno. The route follows the sea closely or from a distance throughout. Along the way, you can visit the opulent Penrhyn Castle, hike to the Aber FallsConwy, an excellent midday stop, whether for a stroll along its ramparts, in its historic center, or at its imposing UNESCO-listed fortress. You then cross the estuary of the river with the same name before arriving in Llandudno, a seaside resort with typical Victorian houses. Once very upscale, the resort has retained its old-world charm. Don't miss the chance to end your trip with a bang by completing the tour of the Great Orme peninsula, on a stunning narrow road built above the cliffs throughout.
Before heading back to the continent, cyclists are recommended to take an excursion to Bodnant Gardens, a garden in the pure English style and considered one of the most beautiful in the UK. The site is accessible by bus from Llandudno.
If you have the opportunity to extend your journey by a day and a night, you are suggested cycling to Betws-y-Coed (26 miles / 42 kilometers), from where you can return to Llandudno by train. The route will take you through the bucolic countryside, and along the way, you'll pass by Bodnant Gardens, which you can visit on your way.
Wales, perhaps even more than its neighbors, Scotland and Ireland, is a land steeped in mysticism, where everything seems to have been designed to make our usual reference points disappear and immerse us in an exciting romanticized imagination! The high plateaus, swept by the wind, invite meditation both due to their vastness and their raw beauty. Only sparse vegetation manages to thrive on these harsh lands. Then, as you descend into the valleys, the bleating of thousands of sheep gradually pulls us out of our solitude. The brownish colors of the burnt moorlands give way to the vivid green of pastures. As for the skies, they seem to be nothing more than a reflection of these gigantic, undulating expanses, forming a mosaic of clouds, some darker than others (like the sheep!). Probably even more so than in Brittany, you will experience the four seasons within the same day... along with the accompanying rainbows!
As you approach the bottoms of the valleys, the vegetation becomes increasingly lush, and impenetrable forests then block the way. Nestled in the depths of these dark valleys, stone villages with sweet names like LLanwrst, Penrhyndeudraeth, Pwllheli, or even Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch (yes, that's the name of a village, nobody fell asleep on its keyboard) further illustrate the indomitable character of Wales. While the English, much more numerous, eventually asserted themselves with gigantic fortresses (Wales has the highest density of castles per square kilometer!), the proud Welsh did not let their soul be stolen. The Welsh language remains the most widely spoken Celtic language in the world, and more than 700 years of English rule later, many residents still use it in their daily lives.
That being said, the Welsh are very welcoming, and you won't have any trouble communicating in English. As for Wales itself, if you don't mind an occasional shower or a slightly steep slope now and then, it's an absolute delight to explore it by bicycle. The landscapes are extremely varied and delightfully beautiful. The small stone villages and fortresses will transport you to another time. But Wales will also delight those who love the Dolce Vita: beautiful white sandy beaches, sea bathing, enchanting English gardens, and diverse cuisine are all part of the experience! And if the destination doesn't yet have the same reputation as Scotland, it's good to know that it's actually less rainy, less expensive, less touristy, and less distant than the latter. Take note, and farewell!
Breakfasts are included. Lunch and dinner are at your leisure. During the day, you can lunch at local restaurants (you'll find daily suggestions in the roadbook) or have a picnic by shopping at local grocery stores.
Half-board is not available on this tour, but you'll always have several restaurants within walking distance of your accommodation if there is no restaurant in the hotel itself.
Birmingham Airport
103 km
Transfer not provided
Manchester Airport
70 km
Transfer not provided
Liverpool John Lennon Airport
46 km
Transfer not provided
The nearest airports are Birmingham Airport, Manchester Airport and Liverpool Airport. All of them are at about 2 hours by train from Chirk station (the starting point of the tour). However, if you are flying to Liverpool, you will need to take bus and train, so the easiest option is actually from Birmingham airport as there is a direct train to Chirk (no changes). In Chirk, the railway station is only 0.4 mile from the hotel so they don't need a cab from the station to get to the hotel.
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